This picture is of the surf during the big swell (10-12 ft.), and has absolutely nothing to do with me surfing today...
Monday, September 5, 2011
Another phone pic. We just had an incredible south swell here on Maui, and of course I was working for the first couple of days it hit. Then I was party planning for my son's 2nd birthday party (which was a ton of fun, by the way), on the third day of the swell. I finally got out to surf today, which despite the waves being small, was absolutely awesome! No leash. Nobody out. Well, thats a lie. There were two others out, but I had my pick of the waves. Felt SOOOOO good to be in the water! Even though I live on Maui, and can see the ocean from my house, I sometimes get caught up in the day to day and so it is nice to take a time out and go re- familiarize myself with this beautiful ocean that surrounds me.